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Binoculars are useful for bird watching because they help you to identify
different species of birds, observe their behaviour, and enjoy their beauty.
There are many types and models of binoculars available, but some factors to
consider when choosing binoculars for bird watching are:
Magnification: This is the number that indicates how much larger the object appears through the binoculars compared to the naked eye. For example, 8x binoculars make the object look eight times bigger. Most birders prefer 7- or 8-power binoculars because they’re bright and have a wide field of view, making it easier to find birds and to follow them in flight.
Objective lens diameter: This is the number that indicates the size of the front lenses of the binoculars in millimetres. For example, 8x42 binoculars have 42mm objective lenses. Larger objective lenses allow more light to enter the binoculars, which improves the image quality and brightness, especially in low-light conditions. However, larger lenses also make the binoculars heavier and bulkier, so you need to balance your comfort and portability preferences.
Field of view: This is the width of the area that you can see through the binoculars at a certain distance, usually expressed in degrees or metres at 1000 metres. For example, a field of view of 8 degrees means that you can see an area of 140 metres wide at 1000 metres away. A wider field of view makes it easier to locate and track moving birds, but it may also reduce the image sharpness and brightness at the edges.
Close focus: This is the minimum distance that you can focus on an object through the binoculars. For example, a close focus of 2 metres means that you can see an object clearly if it is at least 2 metres away from you. A shorter close focus is useful for observing small birds or insects that are close to you.
Eye relief: This is the distance between your eyes and the eyepieces of the binoculars when you see the full image without any black edges. For example, an eye relief of 15mm means that you can hold the binoculars 15mm away from your eyes and still see the whole image. A longer eye relief is important for people who wear glasses, as they need more space to accommodate their glasses.
Coatings: These are thin layers of substances applied to the lenses and prisms of the binoculars to improve their light transmission, contrast, colour fidelity, and durability. There are different types and levels of coatings, such as anti-reflective, phase-corrective, water-repellent, scratch-resistant, etc. Coatings can enhance the optical performance and quality of the binoculars, but they also increase their cost.
Body type: There are two main body types of binoculars: porro-prism and roof-prism. Porro-prism binoculars have a traditional, stepped shape with an angled body. Roof-prism binoculars have a straight-through appearance and tend to be more compact and streamlined. Roof-prism binoculars usually have internal focusing mechanisms that protect them from dust and moisture, but they also require more precise alignment and higher-quality coatings than porro-prism binoculars.
The best binoculars for bird watching depend on your personal preferences,
budget, and birding habits. You may want to try different models before buying
one, and you can do this easily at Sussex Birdwatching and get
helpful advice from us.
Holding Binoculars Correctly.
The Wrong Way:
99% of people when handed a pair of binoculars would hold them in the obvious way, as shown in the picture. Simply by placing their hands on the sides. Of course it works, but it's not that steady and in long term use will lead to fatigue more quickly.
The Right Way:
This picture shows an alternative method. The first fingers and thumbs rest against the face of the observer. This gives much more support and the binoculars are less prone to wobble, especially important with high magnifications models. In addition some of the load is kept off the arms in this stance, making it easier to hold the binoculars for extended periods.
The only downside with this method is that the focus is harder to set. We normally hold them the "wrong" way to adjust the focus then change position. After all, you don't need to adjust the focus more than once per session.
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The wrong way! Unstable due to lack of support. |
The right way. Steady observation and good support. |
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The following is only a small selection of our large range.
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